A Feast of Spices at Bombay
By Delia Castro
Cleverly placed on 5th Avenue in the midst of the
well established restaurant district of Hillcrest, Bombay restaurant
offers a variety of dishes in the flavorful Northern India tradition.
The exotic aromas of coriander seeds, cardamom and cinnamon among other
Indian spices are the first mix of fragrances to greet us as you make
your way in.
The restaurant is designed for
comfort offering outdoor tables, roomy booths in the periphery of the
dining room, and traditional tables, all dressed in elegant white linen
with sparkling stemware. You can also sit at the bar to enjoy
appetizers and cocktails while you wait for your party.
The
light from graceful crystal chandeliers lends a stylish mood to the
large dining room which is complemented by a beautiful bar reminiscent
of the whimsical Taj Majal while a gallery wall of festive and elaborate
Indian turbans adds eye-catching exoticism. The ambiance is further
complemented by the sounds of contemporary Bollywood tunes mixed with
the gentle tinkling of a nearby cascading waterfall.
The
Sapphire room, a spacious salon that accommodates 75 to 100 guests,
offers an elegant and versatile venue for groups. It features a
projecting screen for photograph or video presentations and also has a
buffet table should you prefer this form of serving over the sit down
dinner format.
After a warm “Namaste” greeting
at the door by a handsome Maharaja guard, garbed in classical Indian red
and gold silks, we are greeted by manager James Lao who shows us to our
spacious booth. We are barely over the awe of the graceful monsoon rain
curtain and the understated elegance of the dining room, when
Priscilla, our server, places a trio of sweet, non alcoholic drinks in
front of us. The Mango Lassi, a smooth yogurt milk, is a carnival of
sweet tartness in your mouth. The Goa Sunrise is a silky drink where the
coconut bouquet blends with the tropical sweetness of ripe passion
fruit make a party of flavors. Our third drink, the Masala Night, is a
luscious cocktail of passion fruit mysteriously delicious with the spice
of masala.
In addition to the delightful fruit
drinks, Bombay’s full service bar offers an array of fascinating
libations such as the Mumbai Mojito, which features a taste of mango
that fits well with the tropical theme of this fashionable rum and mint
cocktail. Another specialty cocktail is the Bindi Drop which is a lemon
drop martini laced with exotic spice. These drinks combine the formulas
of established cocktails with tropical flavors and exotic spice to
create new and tasty results!
The wine list
offers a variety of excellent pairings. It covers the map of California
wineries offering red and whites like the Sequoia Grove Cabernet
Sauvignon of Napa Valley, the Fess Parker Pinot Noir from Santa Barbara,
or a Dry Creek Sauvignon Blanc from Sonoma County. It also features
Delas, a French Merlot and some alluring reds from Italy and France.
Bombay’s
commitment to customer satisfaction doesn’t end at the attention to
quality food and the generous selection of wines but extends to offering
many ways to enjoy the array of foods and drinks, like the chef tasting
menu, the buffet brunch offered daily from 11 to 3 pm and the Monday
dinner buffet from 5 pm to 9:30 pm.
The parade
of dishes that follows our refreshing drinks is an experience I will
savor for a long time. A rectangular tray of white ceramic holds a warm
Desi Chatt of peas and potato samosas. The crisp pockets are bathed in
three types of cold sauces: sweet tamarind chutney, tangy mint sauce,
and raita of tomato and cilantro. Together, the tamarind and mint sauces
meld with the zesty peas and potatoes to satisfy every spot in my
palate while the yogurt cools the heat of these spicy savory triangles.
The
plate also presents a pair of golden crisp Coconut Shrimp on a bed of
velvety orange mango chutney. Each tender bite of shrimp is contrasted
by the crunch of the golden batter and the flavor is intensified as it
mixes with the tartness of the mango chutney.
Our
appetizers are paired with a sweet and bright house Riesling that
complements the fragrant tanginess of the sauces with its own fruity and
delicate floral tones. For the sake of variety I try a Martin Ray Pinot
Noir and discover that its intrinsic earthy flavor and hints of berries
bring out the exotic bouquet of the chutneys and sauces on the
samosas.
After the above appealing introduction
of flavors, we taste a selection of five carefully crafted curries
presented in hand hammered copper and stainless steel bowls. The
assortment includes Sagwala, a creamy curry of fresh spinach with a
harmonizing taste of cashews, peanuts and turmeric. The herby and tart
taste of spinach comes together with the sweetness of the nuts and the
spices in a symphony of flavor and texture.
The
Tikka Masala is a sweet, exotically spiced, creamy yogurt sauce served
with large chunks of tender chicken cooked in a and seasoned with the
secret masala spices revealing a complexity of aromas that burst in your
mouth in a festival of flavor. Chef Popat skillfully works a magic
formula that rejoices my palate.
The Vindaloo, a
velvety and toothsome dish of mock duck and potatoes is simmered in a
smooth curry with the zesty taste of cumin and zingy ginger. The
combination of flavors and textures is a pleasure to the palate in every
bite of masterfully balanced hot chilies, and zesty ingredients: we eat
it slowly, savoring every morsel.
The flavorful
show continues with chicken and onions in Korma sauce, a savory curry
flavored with the flowery aroma of saffron. Every piece of soft chicken
is filled with the pungency of onions and further complemented with the
sweetness of raisins, rendering a marriage of tastes in every fork full.
Our taste buds hunger for more of these delicate flavors, tantalizing
them as they linger in our mouths.
The symphony
of flavors approaches its finale with the Masala Pasta, a dish of penne
pasta cooked al dente in a red, creamy masala sauce flavored with fresh
ginger and bell peppers. The tender diced chicken is enveloped in the
zest of Indian spice, providing a delicate contrast of textures for
every sweet and fiery bite.
As the last note, we
are served Tandoori Lamb which is marinated in aromatic herbs and
spices and baked in the classic tandoor clay oven, which assists in the
melding of aromas. The succulent lamb is complemented with the
refreshing taste of mint chutney, unmasking its distinctive taste while
it melts in the herbs and spices to fill the senses with delight.
While
the pungent spices are tamed with a bowl of basmati steamed rice
garnished with fresh cucumbers, careful consideration is offered to meet
every guest’s taste and tolerance as to the degree of piquancy in every
dish. You can request mild, medium, spicy or “tikhi (extreme
spiciness)…if you dare.” You can also dunk savory sesame seed, garlic or
plain naan bread while pretending that you’re dining in exotic Mumbai.
The
dessert selection is an imaginative assortment of sweet treats: the
Bombay Sunset is an airy mousse of ripe mango that fills your mouth with
tangy sweetness, the classical Indian Kheer, an earthly confection of
rice cooked in milk and cinnamon, reminds me of childhood desserts; and
the pistachio and the mango Kulfi ice creams, which are delicately sweet
and remarkably fruity.
Since we want to freely
enjoy our Chocolate Samosas, we leave them for last. As we break the
golden and crisp pastry with our fork, the luscious chocolate runs loose
onto the plate. We scoop it with anticipation and our mouths discover
that a sweet and smooth heaven exists in the form of this confection.
We
leave Bombay restaurant with the certainty that the dishes we savored
have the ability to fulfill the requirements of comfort food by virtue
of the simple everyday ingredients which are cooked in familiar
techniques like sautéing and baking. At the same time, the exotic spices
take us out of the familiar, making for an enjoyable voyage out of our
comfort zone.